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XJR6 – Moved house and Garage

XJR6 – Moved house and Garage

We have moved home and that also meant I had to move my garage and all of its contents. There was no way a removal company would touch moving all of the junk I had spread across three garages. To give you an idea, this is what it looked like with a week to go to the move. I quickly attached the doors and wings to the car so I had less items to move. The bonnet was attached the next day. The mountain of items and boxes to the right of the car were those I had already packed. There is a long length single garage attached to the right of this double that also had a lot if items in it.

Garage part packed
Garage part packed

The process I decided to follow in the end was to rent a 20 foot container about 3 miles away, move all the stuff there prior to the move with a Luton type tail lift truck. I then emptied the container using another truck a couple of weeks later. All in all it was a total of 6 journeys using the biggest Luton available. My brother has an “A” frame towing device which we used to tow the Jaguar to its new location. There is no prop-shaft installed at the moment so no issues with towing with an automatic gearbox. The Jaguar arrived in its new home unscathed although there was a nasty squeak coming from the rear end. Something else to look into when things get a little more organised.

I only have a two reasonably wide single garages at my new house so I have plans to modify them significantly. Ideally I want to make it into a much bigger double with the extra height to have a couple of lifts installed.

The empty garage looked a bit sad, so was I having built it about 20 years ago. Many a fun evening spent pottering around in there!

Garage empty
Garage empty
Garage empty
Garage empty

 

XKR- Brake Switch Repair LJB6420BB

XKR- Brake Switch Repair – LJB6420BB

Recently I started getting an error message scrolling between “Check Rear Lights” and “Cruise Control not available”. It turns out after a little research that this is due to the Brake Switch. This switch is a real pig to change. There is very little room to remove and refit the part plus you have to lay upside down in the foot well to get any chance of reinstalling it. Following the various posts on the Jaguar forum it appears that this is a common issue. On removal of the switch, I found that one of the metal levers on one of the micro switches had snapped off, probably due to fatigue.

Rear of Brake switch
Rear of Brake Switch
Missing/broken hinge
Missing/Broken Hinge

I found the missing piece in the foot well but as it had snapped off, there was nothing to do except replace the switch. A quick look around on the various suppliers plus that well known auction site I found them available but at a high price. Jaguar spare suppliers were around £115 plus delivery and second hand around £50. Well I thought to myself, the micro switches are just soldered in so if I could find a replacement then it would no doubt be much cheaper! The original  ones were manufactured by Cherry and had A2 42 printed on them.

That did not seem to help much, however reading the posts on the Jaguar Forum page a little closer and a very helpful member called Jima had posted a suitable replacement part. (Omron D2HW-A211D sub-miniature micro-switch). These are available from a number of places but I used RS components The micro switches were only 98 pence each so I purchased three of them just in case. The picture on tier website did not look correct as it had three cables connected but they were in fact perfect. The hinge is not the same design as the originals but they work fine. I did put a slight bend in the end of the hinge and also spent a little time fine tuning them once installed to get them both to click on/off at the same time.

The image below shows the slight bend I put into the hinge.

Switches Replaced
Switches Replaced

Getting the switch back in place was the real challenge. A tip on the Jaguar forum mentioned using some thread to help align the bracket. I did try using some fine wire wrapped around the two threaded pins and though the holes in the bulkhead. This on its own failed to get it lined up properly. In the end I had to remove the drivers seat and lie upside down in the foot well. Using a light shining into the engine bay I could see roughly where the holes were. Using the wire and the light I eventually managed to get it back in. I checked the positioning of the adjuster in the switch which you can see in the image of the “Rear of the Brake Switch” above.

A quick test drive and all was working fine. All in all a great result and best of all it only cost less than £5 to fix it. There was however one slight drawback. I did the work outside so I could have the door open and roof down to get better access. The local mosquitoes/midges took a liking to my midriff and I now have a large number of very itchy bites. The suffering we have to go through to keep our beloved Jaguars on the road!

Goodwood 2017

Goodwood 2017

As a long term Le Mans 24 hour visitor I gave it a miss this year and decided to take my wife to the Goodwood Festival of Speed. It was a great event which we both enjoyed. We attended both the Saturday and Sunday. There was beautiful weather and fabulous cars, what more could you possibly want. There were a a few highlights, Jaguar winning the hillclimb event in a XJR-12D in a nail biting finish. My second favourite was seeing a rather unusual looking 1911 Fiat. It was built around a really tall and narrow engine with just what looked liked vents coming out of the side for exhausts. Seeing flames pour out of the side as it made its way up the hill was a sight to behold. I also happened to be standing next to the Williams Renault of Nigel Mansell when they started it up and showed off the amazing active suspension system (see the video).

Williams Renault video

 

The weather was great, this was taken on the way to the hotel on the Saturday evening at around 6PM so still very pleasant temperature with the roof down in the XKR.

 

Goodwood radio
Goodwood radio

 

If you haven’t been I would recommend it at least once 🙂

I would suggest you also go for the Grandstand seat option. We had done for the second day. You can go in any one of the public Grandstands assuming you can find a space. (There are a few company ones that you cant go in) We sat in one along the straight in front of the house for a while. you get to see some of the cars doing doughnuts there and generally hooning about. For the close of the day we went further up the hill at Molecombe Corner and watched them enter the bend trying desperately to scrub of some speed.

Loved it!

BD – Going to Strata Hadoop Conference

BD – Going to Strata Hadoop Conference

I have manage to get a ticket to the Strata Hadoop Conference this week. It looks like it is going to be very interesting. I have a gold ticket which allows access to the training sessions on Tuesday so that’s my first day. I also have to help out on the company stand on Wednesday and Thursday but I am sure I will attend at least some of the keynotes.

I’ll post my review following the visit.

 

XJ6R – Front Suspension Rebuild

XJ6R – Front Suspension Rebuild

The front suspension had not been touched in years. The track rod ends although were probably OK wear wise but looked bad because the rubber “boots” were perished. The “boots” on the lower ball joints looked bad too. Springs, shock absorbers and all the bushes looked rusty and worse for wear.

Lower Ball Joint - split rubber boot
Lower Ball Joint – split rubber boot
Lower Ball Joint - split rubber boot
Lower Ball Joint – split rubber boot

I therefore decide to replace all rubber bushes and ball joints and clean up as I went along. First thing was to order all the associated parts from a few suppliers attempting to get the best price and availability. I had already changed the front subframe bushes with poly bushes however I went with standard rubber for the rest.

Of course I could not resist cleaning and painting along the way and so it took a lot longer than I thought it would. I have still one side to reassemble but the drivers side is now complete. It looks reasonably good even if I say so myself. during this rebuild, I am not after concourse or any thing close to it. I just want it to not look rusty and work the way it should.

There were a few minor “challenges” along the way. Please be very careful removing the springs as with even all the weight of the car on one spring it still has a lot of tension forcing the spring tray downwards. I did not have the correct spring compressor so I used a jack, a number of G cramps and a threaded rod to remove and re-assemble the springs. Some of that pressure did damage the threads so I had to replace some bolts. I did clean up and repaint the springs and the surrounding metal work too. The spring trays were full of rust and road debris. It took a lot of cleaning away of the debris before I could even separate the springs from the tray. The lower fulcrum shaft on the drivers side was a bit of a pain to remove. Unfortunately I did damage the thread a little in my efforts to remove it.  Luckily re-cutting/cleaning up the thread with a die managed to save it. It was not the cost of the replacement of the shaft that was the issue but more of the fact it had a 4-5 week lead time. (I have since seen some in stock! and half the price)

Post Re-Conditioning

Here are a few photos of the state of the suspension before I started

Top of spring assy - a little rusty
Top of spring assembly – a little rusty and you can see the perished rubber on the bump stop.
Top of Suspension - Rusty and worn Shock Absorber. Remember to clean up around the upper ball joint and take note of the number of spacer used so you can put them back in correctly
Top of Suspension – Rusty and worn Shock Absorber. Remember to clean up around the upper ball joint and take note of the number of spacer used so you can put them back in correctly
Anti-Rool Bar Bushes
Anti-Roll Bar Bushes
Top wishbone bush
Top wishbone bush – not too bad looking. There was a fair amount of wear internally though
Passenger side suspension
Passenger side suspension

Lower ball joint replacement

As from the first pictures in this post, you can see the split ball joint covers, if nothing else needed replacing. Removal of the lower ball joint was pretty straight forward and resulted in the items pictured below along with the more modern, single piece replacement on the right hand side. You do have to remove the metal ring insert prior to fitting the new style ball joint.

Lower Ball Joint Disassembled
Lower Ball Joint Disassembled
Ball Joint components
There was some damage caused to the metal ring during removal in this image. This is the ring that needs to be removed to make way for the replacement ball joint. It will not be used again.
Ball joint with insert removed
Top Ball joint goes in here with insert removed. The ring insert needs to be pushed out downwards/outwards

The only non standard thing I did was to not insert all of the spacer rings at the top of the springs. The XJR engine is an Aluminium block rather than the cast block of the original XJ6 engine.  It seemed to make sense that the front of the car would therefore sit a little higher with a lighter engine installed. With that in mind I left out the two, quarter inch thick nylon/plastic ring spacers back on the top of the springs. I might come to regret that decision so we will have to wait and see.

 

XKR – Floor Pan Rust Repair

XKR – Floor Pan Rust Repair

As per my old XJS, the XKR has a similar floor pan with a small metal plate welded onto the underside of the floor. It is around about where the drivers feet go. This added panel is flat whereas the floor pan has stepped channels (don’t know how else to describe it) to give some more rigidity to the panel. This leaves gaps between to two panels where water can collect and then causes rust to eat through the floor.

Underside hole & flat panel
Underside hole & flat panel. You can see the gap between the panels on the left hand side.
Inside view of rotten panel
Inside view of rotten panel

The rust in the drivers side floor was discovered during the 100k service. The passengers side had been repaired previously as part of the pre-delivery service/MOT when I purchased the car. Just over two years later, the drivers side will now cause an MOT failure too. Repair panels are available for £100 (when VAT and delivery are included). There is some shape to the panel, it is not just flat, (The underside panel is). Under the car there is loads of under-seal which hides the repair and of course there is the carpet on the top side. I therefore made up a repair panel to fit. I could just put in a flat panel but I made a jig to fabricate something that looks more like the original interior view.

Carpet removal

The first challenge is to get to the panel by removing the carpet out of the way. You have to remove the tread plate which is held in by three bolts that are under the decal plate. The decal can be removed by applying heat and carefully prying it off. You can use old credit/loyalty cards to slide under the decal, applying heat as you go along. The decal was removed successfully without damaging it. It is only glued on, so I will use some double sided tape to fix it back in place.

Keeping the carpet out of the way is a major priority of mine! That is how I set light to my XJS interior! I was welding in a plate around the seat belt mounting point from under the car. The carpet fell back onto the welding area. The carpet caught light first. That set light to the seat belt, which burned up the B post and seat back, finally burning the headliner. This damage wrote off the car. A sad end to my 9 years of ownership.

Burnt Carpet and post area
Burnt Carpet and post area
Burnt Seat
Burnt Seat
B post & seat belt
B post, seat belt and head liner damage

Obviously I do not want history to repeat itself!

You can see the progress of the repair in the images below:

Cut out from inside
Hole cut out – looking from the inside
Rough cut hole looking up close
Rough cut hole – looking up close from underneath. Notice the difference in depth of the two channels.
cut out piece
This is the was removed metal – view of the underside
Cut out piece inside
Cut out piece – this was the inside
Panel in Jig 1
Panel in Jig 1
Closer view of the panel in the jig
Closer view of the panel in the jig
End on view of repair panel
End on view of repair panel showing the difference in depth of the two “gulleys”

Fitting the panel took a bit of work as there is very limited space in the foot-well especially as I did not totally remove the carpet. I also used my brothers MIG welder with an gas feed rather than the no-gas wire welder I am used too. It took a lot of trial and effort plus a significant amount of grinding to get a reasonable looking result.

Repair Panel Fitted
Repair Panel Fitted (inside)
Repair panel fitted (Underside)
Repair panel fitted (Underside)

A coat of primer then a few coats of stone chip paint for the underside and some satin black inside finished it off quite nicely. It seemed prudent to spray in some wax protection into any cavity that was accessible at the time (sills and front of foot-well) There was some loose under-seal and paint around the front edge of the wheel arch. I removed the flaky paint/rust and also painted those areas with stone chip paint.

Front edge, loose underseal removed
Front edge, loose under-seal removed
painted underside
Painted underside
front edge painted
Front edge cleaned up and painted

XJ6R – Fabricating a new Radiator Fan Shroud

XJ6R – Fabricating a new Radiator Fan Shroud

As previously mentioned, I needed to fabricate a new fan shroud for two reasons. First, the original XJR6 fan shroud had the fans mounted diagonally and they were too high to fit into the available space in the XJ6. Secondly they were to “thick” to fit flush where the standard fan shroud went. I did initially start with the old series 2 shroud, cut out and replaced the rusty parts and then started reshaping to fit the new two fans. Having spent quite some time on this process, I realised there was hardly anything left of the original S2 assembly and it was made up of multiple parts. The best thing to do was to throw it away and start from scratch. I used some of the steel I cut out of the bonnet of the XJR6 so it is made from Jaguar metal anyway 🙂

I should have made it entirely from one piece but I think it is OK with extra strengthening parts welded to the sides. As usual, these things evolve and if I was to make it again I would do a better job of it. The same goes for cutting away the plastic parts of the shroud assembly. Changing the design half way through has meant I cut a little too much away for the ideal final solution.

Fan shroud assembled
Fan shroud assembled
Just painted Fan shroud
Just painted Fan shroud

As you can see, the fans are now going to be mounted horizontally and I also cut out holes for the two rubber flaps using those from the original plastic XJR6 assembly. I did try to fit in part of the plastic molding around the two flaps as there was the word Jaguar molded into the frame and it would have added to the aesthetics even if it is under the bonnet. Unfortunately it would have been too big and I would only have had one flap in the centre too.

In the right hand picture you can see the finished, fully assembled shroud with the two fans and the two rubber flaps in place. The paint has a satin finish as I don’t like the mechanical parts all being gloss black.

Whilst I waited for the paint to dry between coats (primer then a couple of coats of black) I turned my attention to the header tank and the power steering fluid tank. I did look at a few options for the header tank. Finding a solution to the actual location took a little head scratching too. I decided that it would have to go on the left hand side of the engine bay (looking from the front). There is no space where the original went because that space is now taken up by the supercharger and associated  piping. There is also the requirement to find a space for the power steering reservoir. On the series 2 XJ6, the reservoir is part of the power steering pump and mounted on the engine. On the XJR6, it is a stand alone reservoir which is mounted on the wing.

Reading the Jaguar forums, there was a recommendation to use an early XJS header tank. It is not too large and has mounting holes at an angle to be mounted on the wing. I did a little searching and found a second hand one on the well known auction site. There were three to choose from. One looked a little rusty, the other two looked better but all three would require cleaning and repainting.

As purchased (top view)
As purchased (top view)
As purchased (bottom View)
As purchased (bottom View)

I chose the cheapest one which was about half the cost of the others but it sure did look the worst. As long as it was just surface rust and not all the way through then it would be fine. After a good going over with a wire brush wheel in my trusty angle grinder it was ready for paint. A couple of coats of primer and then the satin black and it looks fine.

If I come across a safety sticker I might just put that on too. I decide to fit it on the mount next to the support braces that go diagonally across the engine bay. The other mounting is further down the wing and will be via one of the rubber mounts used for the air filter box on the XJS.

The picture below shows the final painted header tank with just one bolt pushed into the hole to hold it in place for the photo.

Fluid Reservoir location
Fluid Reservoir location
Painted header tank
Painted header tank

I had mocked up the location of the header tank and the reservoir so I deliberately left a small amount of space between the header tank and the brake master cylinder. I then spent a little while working out the piping for the power steering. It turns out, the old Series 2 high pressure pipes have the same fittings as the XJR6 power steering pump. There was an issue with the fixed metal parts of the pipes as I think they originally went over the right hand side of the steering rack tower and this would now be too close to the exhaust.

I think the exhaust pipe may hit the steering rack any way, so something else to tackle when I get to it. I happened to have a spare steering rack from an earlier XJ6 that had a different pipe layout. These were much closer fit to the rack and “U” shaped. That meant that I could run the pipes the other side of the steering rack tower and onto the pump/reservoir whilst avoiding close proximity to the exhaust pipes.

Another issue I worked on is that the cooling fans were controlled by a dual temperature switch mounted in the radiator. It  turned on one or both fans based on temperature. The problem is, I am not using the XJR6 radiator so there is no where for the switch to go. I previously mentioned that although the original Series 2 radiator had a switch in it, the two radiators I now have do not. After a bit of searching, I came across the “Car Builder Solutions” web site and they have an aluminum housing for the M22 dual switch that goes inline with the large cooling pipe. The biggest they do is 38mm and so I will use reducers on both sides to fit. This is a slight reduction in diameter but hopefully will not cause an issue.

All of the above is ready to fit but as often happens, I ran out of time to assemble it.

If I don’t post before next week, I wish you a very Happy Christmas (or Holidays if your religion prefers) and a Happy New Year.

I only started this site a year ago and hoped to have the conversion completed way before now! Somehow, Life gets in the way sometimes and it has been a tough year for me personally. Hopefully 2017 will be a great one for me and for you too.

🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

XJR6 – New Parts & Decisions

XJR6 – New Parts & Decisions

I have been working on getting the next stages of the project sorted and needed some more new bits. I have summarised them below:

  • Purchased and fitted a new Brake Master Cylinder & Reservoir from SNG Barratt
    • Pins for reservoir also ordered but the “R” clips were not available so ordered some elsewhere
  • I ordered a pair front shock absorbers (CAC9089B) checking they included the fittings on the top of the shock as some do not appear to come with them
  • I ordered a small alloy filler cap and tiny header tank for the inter-cooler system which I will keep separate from the main engine cooling system
  • About to order an XJS header tank as per Larry Louton used in his car on the Jaguar forum
  • Decided to use the XJR AC set up as much as possible so ordered a new condenser and receiver dryer
    • I will have to have a couple of pipes made up to match the newer XJR pipes with the old evaporator unit in the S2 dash. I have both the old and new pipes so maybe get them cut and joined?
  • Decided to go with a reconditioned S2 radiator I purchased a few years ago (unless I can find the original and it is in OK condition)
  • Came across the size issue with the electric fans as described below but will probably do something similar to Larrys solution as per the link above

The issue with the radiator & electric fans on the XJR is that they are too high to fit into the space in the Series 2 XJ6. This means I need to use either a Series 2 or series 3 radiator and causes a number of issues as follows:

  • There are gearbox cooling pipes that screw into the XJR radiator where as the older S2 radiator used a tube that fitted into the large radiator pipes with the gearbox fluid running inside a collar. I seem to have mislaid that tube/collar too so I will probably have to buy a new one and change the pipes to fit. It might be better to go for a horizontal alloy cooler that I could fit in the front somewhere. Try searching for “universal 7 row cooler” to get an idea of what I am thinking of.
  • I have two radiators to chose from. One is old and rusty looking and will no doubt require a re-core and one all painted gloss black. I do remember purchasing the “reconditioned” one a few years ago.  Neither of them have a fitting for a temperature sensor. This is a little confusing as I checked the older “tear down” pictures and I can clearly see a sensor in the lower right hand corner when looking from the engine bay at the radiator. I will have to hunt around and see if I can find the original radiator along with the gearbox cooler tube/collar.
    • Original radiator & sensor
      Original Radiator & Temp Sensor ~ middle
  • The XJR had electric fans so I need to have some form of electric fans on the new install. As you can see from the pictures below I have the original S2 fan shroud which is all tatty and rusty, A series 3 plastic surround which has the single fan cutout for the engine driven fan and the twin electric assembly from the XJR.
  • Original S2 fan shroud assembly
    Original S2 fan shroud assembly
    Rusty original fan shroud
    Rusty original fan shroud
    Rusty original fan shroud
    Rusty original fan shroud
    XJR dual electric fan assembly
    XJR dual electric fan assembly
    Spot the size issue :-)
    Spot the size issue 🙂

    I plan to cut down the dual electric fan assembly and place them horizontally across the engine bay. This will decrease the height. Currently, I have cut across the bottom right hand corner (where the two lighter coloured flaps are in the photo) so it fits in at an angle but it looks terrible!

Larrys aluminum sheet design (on the jag forum) looks better so I will do something similar. During the rebuild I fitted a new front cross member due to it being rotted away. This means I can drill new holes to mount the radiator a little further towards the front of the car. That will give me a vital couple of extra centimeters providing more clearance between the new fans and the belts at the front of the engine.

Fun and games 🙂

Thanks to Larry Loudon on the Jaguar forum for the ideas and inspiration

XJ6R – Air Bag Module “hard wired”

XJ6R – Air Bag Module “hard wired”

I have successfully wired the Airbag module into the car so it turns off the warning message and I can see the miles on the odometer. It will also stand a better chance of getting through an MOT now 🙂  I have drawn up the modifications if anyone else wants to do the same thing.

Hard wired for no airbags connected
Hard wired for no airbags connected

Please note that the pin-outs for the modules in the electronic guide do not match the actual pin-outs on the module. The groups of three pins and two pins are interchanged. The diagram above show the view of the solder side of the circuit board.

Previous article

Kempton Steam Museum

Kempton Steam Museum

Visted the Kempton Steam Museum today. It was as really fascinating visit. I had been to see the engine run before but just the sheer size of these steam engines is enough to keep my attention. The building is listed and so are the Triple-Expansion Steam Engines. These are huge 3 story high team engines that used to pump ~33 million gallons of water per day to north London (15 miles).  They did this for 57 years! The engines and the building have been restored by volunteers with some support from Thames Water (built a boiler house for them). Just an amazing achievement to get one of the engines running again. They are so huge and heavy, around 100 Tonnes, that they had to start warming the engine on Thursday for today’s run (Saturday)

They do guides tours, definitely recommended, tea/coffee and snacks (great value and good quality). Out side there is a Steam railway and a play area for kids. Today there was  bit of a car show, Jaguars from the Surrey Hants Border JEC Club (Thanks for the lift and company Neil) and a range of other classic cars plus a long row of American classic cars too.

Nice video of the engine starting on youtube.

Engine Number 6
Engine Number 6
Steam Turbine driven Water Pumps
Steam Turbine driven Water Pumps
Engine Number 6 running
Engine Number 6 running
Engine number 6 running
Engine number 6 running

kempton-steam-009 kempton-steam-008

These futuristic looking Glass Bulbs are actually AC to DC rectifiers (Diodes) They use Mercury as one contact and mains AC electricity is fed in whilst DC is the output. These are replacements and came from an Opera house of all places.

Mercury Rectifiers
Mercury Rectifiers
Mercury Rectifiers
Mercury Rectifiers